ベオグラードからクラリェヴォへバスで移動（セルビア出張の日々1）

　もう4−5年前だったか、一度行ってきた支店（＆近隣の代理店も）にまた行ってこいとの指令が出まして、再度旧ユーゴ地域に行くことになりました。南が中心なのですが、セルビアСрбија/Srbija/Serbiaの首都ベオグラードБеоград/Beograd/Belgradeから入りました。この町は若い頃以来です。変わりすぎていて体が震えました。

ニコラ・テスラ空港の出国口から直進するとバス乗り場。A1というシャトルバスに乗車。

料金は400セルビア・ディナル（D）でした。尚、出国口の直前の両替所で多少ユーロをディナルに代えておきました。

サヴァ川を渡り旧市街へ。

こんなタワーはなかったような。

ベオグラード・バスターミナル(Београдска аутобуска станица/Beogradska autobuska stanica/БАС/BAS/Belgrade Bus Station)のわきで、なぜか停車したので、降りちゃいました。ネット情報だと、スラヴァヤ広場まで直通というのも見ていたので、ここで降りられたのはありがたい。写真はふりかえって見たところ。乗ってきたミニバスと荷物を下ろす人々。

ターミナル内。正面のПекараを見て、ロシア語話者は希望を持ったはず。「ここ、ロシア語でいけるんじゃね？」と。実はそうではない（そうでもない）のですが。似てる語は多いのですが、そうでもないのも多いのと、発音かなあ。ヤーとかダーとかはよく聞こえてきます。

写真だとちょっとおしゃれに見えるチケット売り場。

プラットホームに出るには、ゲートをくぐらねばなりません。「チケット持ってるからいいや」と思っていたこうや君はあとでここで、はまりました。

脇にあった貴重なバス時刻表。その1

その2

その3

その4

時間があったのでちょっとだけ町を散策。そばにあったステファン君と旧ベオグラード鉄道駅Железничка станица Београд Главна/Belgrade Main Railway Station。

よくわかっていなかったのですが、丘を登っていくと一等地になるのですね。上方からの展望。

おしゃれな町になってきました。

国会議事堂。

中央郵便局っぽい。

その裏の、サンマルコ聖堂Црква Светог Марка / Crkva Svetog Marka。バスの時間が迫ってきたので大急ぎで戻ります。下り坂なので多少は楽。

因みにロシア鉄道の大看板を発見して興奮。

ターミナルでトイレに行っておきます。100Dです。入り口のおばちゃんに渡すと、疑似コインをもらえるので（ここでもジェトンと呼ぶのか？）、トイレの入り口のゲートに入れて通過します。

矢印のところにジェトンを入れます。緊急の方はやっていられないですね。こんなもん。

　時間が来たのでプラットホームに出ようとしたら、係のおっちゃんに止められました。あそこで入場券を買って来い、と。確かに入り口にも書いてあるし、止められている旅行者は他にもいるので、そういう仕組みかと了解し左隅の窓口で入場券を購入。クレカOKでした。300ディナルなり。QRコード付きレシートをもらったらプラットホームへのゲートも無事通過できました。

中はよくあるプラットホーム。どこからでるか標示がないのですが、ゲートのおっちゃんが20−23番ホームくらいと教えてくれたので待ちます。

五分前くらいに到着。来ないかと思って緊張しました。バス下に入れる大きな荷物は別料金を取られます。70Dとのこと。ユーロで払おうとしたら、ダメだの一点張り。やはり現地通貨は持っていないとダメですねえ。

段々と田舎に。

ところどころに教会あり。

のろいトラクターに阻まれる車列。

ゴルニ・ミラノヴァツГoрњи Милановац/Gornji Milanovacで15分休憩。

チケット売り場。

時刻表

出発後。山越え谷越えはるばると…

路肩での野菜売りが増えてきました。

しかしまあ、トウモロコシ畑がホント多い。

こうして3時間以上かかって、クラリェヴォКраљево/Kralevoに到着。ボロイですが、一応ターミナルです。

お疲れ様でした。

内部のチケット売り場。次の代理店までのチケットを買おうとしたら、「こんな時間のバスはないから別のを当日バスで買え」とのこと。ホントかなあ。間違っていると今後の旅程がズレる。

暑さで犬が寝てました。あとでわかるのですが、この町、犬が多い。

代理店への挨拶後、町巡り。一応繁華街です。木の下のカフェには人が結構います。

ブロガーさんが書いていたお店で食事。体はボロボロ、もう寝ます。

ーーーーー

It was four or five years ago, I think, that I was ordered to go back to the branch office (and the nearby agencies) that I had visited once before, and I ended up going to the former Yugoslavia region again. I entered from Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. It had been a long time since I had been to this city when I was younger, and it had changed so much that I felt a tremor run through my body.

If you go straight from the exit gate at Nikola Tesla Airport, you will reach the bus stop. I got on the A1 shuttle bus.

The fare was 400 Serbian dinars (D). I also exchanged some euros for dinars at the exchange booth just before the exit gate.

I crossed the Sava River and went to the old town.

I don't think there was a tower like this.

For some reason, the bus stopped by the side of the Belgrade Bus Station (Београдска аутобуска станица/Beogradska autobuska stanica/БАС/BAS/Belgrade Bus Station), so I got off. I had seen online that the bus went straight to Slavyanskaya Square, so I was grateful to be able to get off here. The photo is a view looking back. People unloading the minibus and their luggage.

Inside the terminal. Looking at the sign “Пекара” at the front, Russian speakers must have had hope. “Maybe we can get by in Russian here?”. Actually, that's not the case (not really). There are a lot of words that sound similar, but there are also a lot that don't, and it's probably the pronunciation. You can often hear “Ya” and “Da”.

The ticket office looks a little stylish in the photo.

To get to the platform, you have to go through the gate. Koya-kun, who thought “I've got my ticket, so it's OK,” got stuck here later.

The valuable bus timetable by the side. Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

I had some time to spare, so I decided to go for a short walk around the town. I found this old Belgrade railway station near Stefan's house.

I didn't really understand it at the time, but I see now that it's a prime location, up on the hill. A view from above.

The town is becoming more stylish.

The National Assembly Building.

Looks like the central post office.

Behind it is St. Mark's Cathedral Црква Светог Марка / Crkva Svetog Marka. The bus is about to leave, so we hurry back. It's downhill, so it's a little easier.

Incidentally, we were excited to find a big sign for the Russian Railways.

I'll go to the toilet at the terminal. It's 100D. If you give it to the lady at the entrance, you'll get a fake coin (is it called a 'jeton' here too?), which you can put in the gate at the entrance to the toilet and pass through.

Put the 'jeton' in the place indicated by the arrow. If you're in a hurry, you can't afford to waste time on this. That's it.

When it was time to go out onto the platform, I was stopped by the attendant. He told me to go and buy a ticket there. As it was written on the entrance, and there were other tourists being stopped, I understood that this was the system, and I bought a ticket at the ticket window in the left corner. Credit cards were accepted. It cost 300 dinars. After receiving a receipt with a QR code, I was able to pass through the gate to the platform without any problems.

The inside is a typical platform. There is no indication of where the train will depart from, but the old man at the gate told me it would be from platform 20-23, so I waited.

I arrived about five minutes before the train was due to depart. I was nervous, thinking it might not come. You have to pay extra for large bags that you can take on the bus. It was 70D. When I tried to pay in euros, they said it wasn't possible. You really have to have the local currency.

Gradually getting into the countryside.

There are churches here and there.

The car queue is blocked by a slow tractor.

We took a 15-minute break in Gornji Milanovac.

Ticket booth.

Timetable

After departure. Over mountains and valleys, we finally made it...

There are more and more vegetable sellers on the roadside.

But there are so many corn fields.

After more than 3 hours, we arrived at Kralevo. It's a bit run-down, but it's a terminal.

Thank you for your hard work.

The ticket office inside. When I tried to buy a ticket to the next agency, I was told “There are no buses at this time, so buy another one on the day of the bus”. I wonder if that's true. If it's wrong, my itinerary for the future will be off.

The dog was sleeping due to the heat. As I would find out later, there are a lot of dogs in this town.

After saying hello to the travel agent, we went for a walk around town. This is the main shopping street. There are quite a few people in the cafe under the trees.

We had dinner at a restaurant that a blogger had written about. I'm exhausted, so I'm going to sleep now.