当分お別れ、さらばキエフКиїв-Пасажирський駅。この駅はほんと、風格があって良い。ウクライナ号の発車は20時35分でした。一時間前に駅に到着したのですが、列車は既に12番線に入線していました。ただ、乗車するにはちょっと早いと思い、待合室で待機。メインの入り口近辺の待合室はいつも混み合っているので、もう一方の入り口（ケンタッキーのある側）の三階の待合室で待機です。前線に向かう軍人さんたちもここで待機していました。
発車10分前にホームに降り、自分の車両を目指して移動です。男性の車掌さんだったのですが、久々に切れのあるロシア語を話す人でした。乗車時に出国審査と入国審査の場所を念のために聞くと、コノトプКонотопとブリャンスクБрянскとのこと。時刻表によるとブリャンスクは停車しないことになっていますから、客を乗り降りさせない業務停車の形を取るようです。尚この日は満室御礼状態でした。ただ、僕の寝床の場所は車掌室側の隅のプラツカルトだったので、線路と平行する寝台部分が荷物置き場になっており、4人で一区画を占めることが出来ました。他の区画は6人で一区画ですが。
それから、外国人がロシアに入る場合には入国カード（ミグラツィオンナヤ・カルタ）が必要です。車掌が配りましたので、隣のウクライナのおばちゃんと一緒に書き入れておきます。揺れるのでなかなか書きにくかった（上段の母娘はロシア人なのでこれは不要）。
23時過ぎにコノトプに到着。到着直後にチェルニヒウЧернигівから来た三両をまず増結します。その後にウクライナの出国審査です。係官が乗り込んできます。一応寝台の下もあけて、荷物の確認が行われました。といっても鞄の中のチェックはなし。パスポート・コントロールも、全く質問なしで比較的早くすみました。
その後、早朝三時前くらいにブリャンスクに到着です。眠すぎて写真を撮れませんでした。コノトプと同じく、まず車掌が全員に声をかけます。その後まずいらしたのが麻薬探査犬。「犬が入ります」みたいな声が聞こえた後、そこそこ大きい犬が車内に入り、乗客の鞄のにおいをかぎます。実は僕はキエフ駅で朝食用にベリャシとサシスキのパンを買っていたのですがそのにおいが強烈で、犬が反応するのではないかとびくびくしていたのですが、それは杞憂に終わりました。次いで女性の審査官が到着。手に収まるブラックライト付きの拡大鏡で僕のビザは入念にチェックされました。ただ質問はなし。流石にこの時間はものすごく眠くて、スタンプが捺されるとすぐに寝落ちしました。
朝、気がつくとオブニンスクОбнинскあたりでした。
その後小一時間ほどでモスクワ・キエフ（キエフスキー）Москва-Киевский駅に到着です。行きと異なり、屋根付きホームに停車です。17両編成です。
三か月ぶりに戻ってくると、バス停などの電光掲示板が増えていたり、バスやマルシルートカが青に塗られていたりと、思っていたよりも変わっていました。また、メトロのチケット購入でVISAカードが使えるようになっていました（これはありがたかった）。それから街角の物売りおばちゃんたちや怪しげなキオスクが一掃されていました。何があったのだろう・・・
明日からまた仕事です。上司にお土産を渡さないと。（2016.8.14）
＊ウクライナからロシア入り（スムィからバスでクルスクへ）した事例はこちら。
（Briansk, Chernigiv, kievskii, Konotop, Kyiv, Moskva, Obninsk, ）
At the order of the branch manager, I returned to Moscow from Kiev. Well, I simply took a train back, so there's not much to write about, but I'll write it down just in case it might be useful to someone. I wrote about the process of buying the ticket about half a month ago, so please refer to that.
Farewell for the time being, Kyiv-Passazhyrskyi Station. This station really has a lot of character. The Ukraine train departed at 20:35. I arrived at the station an hour before departure, but the train was already pulling into platform 12. However, I thought it was a bit early to board, so I waited in the waiting room. The waiting room near the main entrance is always crowded, so I waited in the waiting room on the third floor of the other entrance (the side with Kentucky Fried Chicken). The soldiers heading to the front line were also waiting here.
We got off the platform 10 minutes before departure and moved towards our carriages. The conductor was a man, and he spoke Russian with a clear accent, which I hadn't heard for a while. When I asked him where the immigration and passport control points were, he told me they were in Konotop and Bryansk. According to the timetable, the train doesn't stop at Bryansk, so it seems that it takes the form of a business stop where passengers are not allowed to get on or off. On this day, the train was full. However, my sleeping berth was in the corner of the platform by the conductor's compartment, so the sleeping berth area parallel to the tracks was used as a luggage storage area, and four people could occupy one section. Other sections were occupied by six people.
Also, foreigners entering Russia need to fill in an immigration card (migratsionnaya karta). The conductor handed them out, so I filled in mine together with the Ukrainian lady next to me. It was difficult to write in the shaking train (the mother and daughter in the upper row are Russian, so they didn't need to fill in this card).
We arrived at Konotop just after 11pm. Immediately after arriving, we first added three cars from Chernihiv. After that, we went through Ukrainian immigration. The officials came on board. They opened the under-berth compartments and checked our luggage. However, they didn't check our bags. The passport control was also relatively quick, with no questions asked.
After that, we arrived in Bryansk at around 3am. I was so sleepy that I couldn't take any photos. As with Konotop, the conductor first called out to everyone. After that, the first thing that came was a drug-sniffing dog. After hearing a voice saying something like “the dog is coming in”, a fairly large dog entered the carriage and sniffed the passengers' bags. I had actually bought some belyashi and sasiski bread for breakfast at Kiev Station, and the smell was so strong that I was worried the dog might react, but my fears were unfounded. Next, a female inspector arrived. My visa was carefully checked using a magnifying glass with a black light that could fit in the palm of her hand. However, there were no questions. As I had expected, I was extremely sleepy at this time, and I fell asleep as soon as the stamp was put on my passport.
In the morning, I found myself in the Obninsk area.
After that, we arrived at Moscow-Kiev (Kievsky) station in about an hour. Unlike the journey there, the train stopped at a covered platform. It was a 17-carriage train.
When I returned after three months, I found that there were more electronic signboards at bus stops, and that buses and marshrutkas were painted blue, so things had changed more than I had expected. Also, I was able to use my VISA card to buy metro tickets (which was very helpful). In addition, the street vendors and suspicious kiosks had all disappeared. I wonder what happened...
I have to go back to work tomorrow. I have to give my boss a souvenir. (14 August 2016)
* For an example of entering Russia from Ukraine (from Sumy to Kursk by bus), see here.
(Briansk, Chernigiv, kievskii, Konotop, Kyiv, Moskva, Obninsk,)
0 件のコメント:
コメントを投稿